At 56 W. 22nd Street, near Sixth Avenue, Grandma’s Home stands as the first American outpost of a Chinese chain: Originating in Hangzhou, China in 1998, it now has over 200 branches across 60 cities in China.

Hangzhou, capital of Zhejiang Province, lies around 100 miles southwest of Shanghai, and was capital of China during the Song Dynasty (970-1279). Since that time, its unique cuisine has featured a blending of northern and southern styles, and a fastidious use of local game and produce, including venison, bamboo, and kelp, in stews and stir fries, according to Fuschia Dunlop in Invitation to a Banquet. Grandma’s Home, which opened in March, doesn’t stick to purely Hangzhou dishes, offering many items already familiar to New Yorkers from Shanghai and Sichuan menus.

Right inside the front door is a bar that turns out mocktails (try the coconut ginger flip, made with almond milk, $9); and sake-strength cocktails (try Uncle Song’s sippy cup, with vermouth, ginger, and honey, $13 — unfortunately, not served in a sippy cup). Otherwise, the alcohol list is primarily dominated by European wines, mainly by the bottle.

The restaurant is humongous, seating 120 in three major dining areas. The decor features modest pottery displayed in niches, surreal art works, tables in dramatic pools of light, and a raised table in the front room fit for ceremonial meals. A flagstone wall, along with hanging plants, makes it feel like you’re dining outdoors. The menu features a tight collection of appetizers, dim sum, specialties, and soup, as well as rice, noodles, and dessert. Here are five wonderful dishes you ought to check out.

Hong shao rou: $22
While Grandma doesn’t offer Hangzhou’s most famous dish, Dongpo pork, she does showcase its cousin, hong shao rou, a recipe that red-braises pork belly in rice wine, along with star anise, thick soy sauce, and rock sugar. The pork belly, dark as midnight, arrives in a knob until it’s prodded with chopsticks and falls apart. Served with steamed bao, it swims in braising liquid along with floppy kelp and lovely green bamboo shoots. You’ve never tasted richer pork belly.

Tofu skin rolls: $14
These skin rolls look like little neatly folded blankets, filled with minced vegetables, with a wonderful bouncy texture. Don’t hold it against the restaurateurs that they’ve attempted to up the appeal for American diners with flecks of black truffle.

Green tea claypot chicken: $48
If there is one dish you must have from the menu, this would be it. An entire chicken is braised with Dragon Well tea leaves grown near Hangzhou, spices, goji berries, orange peel, and lots of salt, resulting in flavors of great subtlety served in a copious amount of broth. You’ll need to order plenty of rice to go along with it. Feeds three or four.

Simmered peppercorn beef: $24
This is basically a Sichuan dish you may already be familiar with, often made with fish in a pale gravy dotted with littles trees of green Sichuan peppercorns, which have a tart and pungent flavor and a mellow tingle. The beef is pillow-soft, and the interplay of spices and textures is remarkable. A wealth of vegetables layers the depths of the broth, including daikon and bamboo.

Scallion oil noodles: $14
The simplicity of this dish is refreshing, a tangle of noodles in sesame oil heaped with scallions and kissed with sweet light soy sauce. Nothing could be more flavorful or fun to eat.