What is Chicago deep dish crust meant to be? Ask any Chicagoan: It depends on what you grew up eating. The original recipe has a thinner, shallower crust than many versions from today’s pizzerias, and making it at home may be the only way to taste it. This recipe is based on the earliest known published recipe that Richard Riccardo, the founder of Pizzeria Uno, shared with the newspaper columnist Gaynor Maddox in 1945. Peter Regas, a pizza historian, finessed it over many years, and here, it’s been adapted to work in any home kitchen. All you need is a couple of 8- or 9-inch metal cake pans and an open mind. The crust in this variation is almost caky and not as fermented as other styles of deeply proofed pizza dough. The sausage is what makes this especially Chicagoan, but if you don’t eat it, you could swap out the mozzarella for provolone for more richness with the same cheese pull. —Eric Kim