It was the best girls’ trip I’d ever taken, and my only regret is that it wasn’t longer. My two daughters, ages 16 and 11, are off for the summer to a camp in Maine, and I had a weekend to spend with them before they left home for eight weeks—the longest they had ever been away.
Sure, we could have spent our last 48 hours together bonding in New York, but I wanted dedicated time with the girls from the distractions of work and errands that are inevitable in my everyday life.
I had long heard about how The Greenbrier, a luxury resort in West Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, was a dream destination for families. The website, with its gorgeous pictures and list of activities and amenities, was all I needed to be convinced.
The Greenbrier, for the indoctrinated, ranks as one of the oldest and most storied resorts in the country.
Listed as a National Historic Landmark, the 11,000-acre property is nestled among the scenic Allegheny Mountains and has attracted visitors from around the world for more than 237 years.
They come to enjoy the healing properties of the area’s natural mineral waters and indulge in the setting that an upscale retreat like The Greenbrier offers.
They also come for the distinctive decor established by Dorothy Draper & Co. 78 years ago. Named after America’s ultimate designed doyenne, the firm imbues The Greenbrier with a vibrancy that’s hard to find elsewhere- bold colors, graphic patterns and dramatic classical influences with modern touches all figure in.
As we learned during our trip, before Draper came into the picture in 1946, the former grand Southern resort had been converted into a 2,000-bed hospital by the US Army during WWII. Draper stepped in and embarked on an ambitious project to redecorate the hotel.
In 1948, The Greenbrier reopened with a grand party attended by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Bing Crosby, Joseph Kennedy, Brenda Frazier, Ben Hogan and many others. Draper remained the resort’s decorator until she retired in the 1960s, but her firm continues to work at The Greenbrier and is very much integral to its DNA. Even my girls were taken by the verve and can’t miss bright hues everywhere.
The aesthetic aside, there are other reasons why The Greenbrier makes for the ultimate family vacation. I’ll expound on the four most compelling ones below. It’s no wonder why the same families have been guests for generations—this is a place where memories are made.
The Activities
Don’t ask what activities The Greenbrier offers. Ask what it doesn’t.
The property has more than 80 pursuits- there’s everything to cater to any interest and age group, so boredom isn’t even an option. We did off-roading on jeeps, an aerial ropes adventure course in the mountains and a virtu sandblasting experience with an artist where the girls got to make glass plates. And the mummy-themed escape room that we solved our way out of was unbelievable- as good, if not better, as the options we’ve tried in New York. Our only dilemma was finding the time to do everything that we wanted to do.
Other possibilities include horseback riding on ten miles of trails or through the woods, jewelry making with a professional artist and a mountaineering excursion where you learn archery, tomahawk throwing and how to shoot an air rifle.
Parents who want a break from their kids- and let’s face it, who doesn’t, me included?- can escape to the gorgeous spa, among the top I’ve had the privilege to enjoy. The facilities including the indoor and outdoor relaxation spaces combined with the massages, facials and other body treatments invite you to succumb to serenity.
I can’t leave out golf: with The Greenbrier’s four world-renowned courses, the sport is a reason for a trip in and of itself.
The Food
It doesn’t matter what you like to eat or what allergies or aversions you have- The Greenbrier will more than please any and every type of eater. As I can tell you based on my personal restrictions – no gluten, dairy, onions or alliums and garlic- that the cuisine was delicious and a highlight of our stay.
There are 20 options to dine and imbibe at The Greenbrier, each with a unique theme and ambiance but all designed by Dorothy Draper & Co..
The steakhouse Prime 44 West has a warm, clubby feel with its rich wood paneling and serves killer steaks like filet mignon and Wagyu. Draper’s Café is a homage to Southern cuisine- think fried green tomatoes, shrimp and grits and fried chicken— and is a whimsical space with flowery banquettes, aubergine walls and red-floral carpeting while the sushi bar In-Fusion proffers excellent, fresh sushi coupled with detailed patterns and tea canisters throughout.
I can go on and on to tempt your palate, but that would take away from the fun of the discovery on your own visit.
Between the three of us, we tucked into fresh salad with grilled chicken, burgers, a peach-flavored roast chicken, filet mignon and Dover sole, and seared scallops that I can’t get off my mind. And ice cream. And chocolate souffle. And cookies. Oh, and I almost forgot about those brownies…
The Accommodations
We were lucky enough to stay in a two-bedroom suite with a huge living room and ample space to spread out. The Greenbrier offers accommodations to suit families of any size—options include spaces with multiple rooms, plus cottages and homes with kitchens.
Each is individually and sumptuously decorated by Dorothy Draper & Co. and filled with high-end fabrics, handcrafted furniture, antiques, and artworks.
The Service
Let’s be real here—the service at a resort, especially when you’re spending your entire vacation at the property, can make or break your stay. At The Greenbrier, the first is definitely the case.
Many of the staff have worked at the hotel for decades or more and are part of what makes the property such a special place. As I learned on our trip, a 20-year employee is a newcomer at The Greenbrier, while someone with a 30-plus-year legacy is par for the course.
The staff is warm, endearing, and genuine. They go out of their way to please guests, whether that means conversing with them about their day, getting them a bottle of water or glass of wine, or simply greeting them with a smile. They treat you like close friends, not guests, in a manner that’s hard to find today as more and more large resorts go the corporate route.
Our contact throughout our stay was Debbie Aldridge, the property’s chief concierge, who has been a part of The Greenbrier family for close to 30 years. Miss Debbie, as my girls called her, planned every aspect of our trip in advance, from suggesting and booking activities based on our interests to asking about our allergies and making dining reservations accordingly to arranging an off-property excursion to the nearby picturesque town of Lewisburg.
Debbie ensured that everything I requested in our suite was ready and waiting upon our arrival, was available by phone or text an always patient when we changed and then changed again what we wanted to do. So, Debbie, I write thank you to you for creating such a wonderful stay.
As I said, The Greenbrier is a place where memories are made. It’s a destination where I savored precious time with my two children in a way that we rarely have the chance to do. And isn’t that the very definition of a priceless escape?