It was not all that long ago that finding decent Indian food in Berlin felt like a near impossible task, but if any single outlet signals the turnaround in culinary offerings from the subcontinent in recent years, Spice Junction might be it. Now, it appears, it isn’t just possible to get good Indian food in this city, but it’s possible to sample delicious and authentic Indian cooking in the unpretentious surroundings of a local neighbourhood supermarket.
Homemade potato samosa is crushed and topped with tamarind sauce, mint sauce, yoghurt, picked radish and beetroots
Since Spice Junction opened its doors last December, it has already become a bustling meeting point for Berlin’s Indian community. This is especially true on Saturdays, when they bring in a snack bar and serve up some outstanding examples of authentic Indian street food: Samosa Chaat, Panipuri, Isli Sambar and – on the day we visited – Masala Dosa freshly cooked on a hot plate in the store.
“The idea was to have the set up like in India. There, if you go to the mall, go to the grocery store, you’ll always have vendors outside selling stuff. This is in our blood.”
Rakesh opened the store five months ago. He was born in Berlin and has seen better than anyone how Berlin lacked a great option when trying to find authentic Indian products at reasonable prices.
“We want to support the Indian community. It’s been growing, and we wanted to bring together not just all the spices, but the different kinds of soaps, toothpaste, all that stuff which you can’t really get over here. Or if you find it, it’s very expensive.”
Are there any products that his customers are surprised by?
“The makeup section, for example. We’ve got some women’s products which are very hard to find elsewhere. But also Maggi, you know, the seasonings? It’s a cheap product but they have some spice packets which people go crazy for. They come and buy 10 at a time and we have to tell them, ‘Don’t worry, it’ll all still be here next week.’”
Right now, it’s mango season. Everyone comes for the mangoes from India
“Right now, though, it’s mango season. Everyone comes for the mangoes from India. We have the Alphone, the sweet ones, but also Badami and Kesar mangoes. The season started in April and it will go until mid-July, so people are definitely coming for that.”
The variety of different spices, pickles, rice and frozen goods at Spice Junction is impressive – with hard to find groceries like okra, mini aubergines or sugar cane among the fresh produce – but it is the freshly cooked meals on the snack bar which draws the crowds.
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Each Saturday, Spice Junction brings in staff wearing tall white chef’s hats to serve up examples of Indian vegetarian street food which are very hard to find elsewhere in the city. Take the Samosa Chaat. Here, a homemade potato samosa is crushed and topped with tamarind sauce, mint sauce, yoghurt, picked radish and beetroots and sprinkled with coriander. The result is so deliciously tangy, it’s not hard to see why it is the most popular item on the menu each week.
The masala dosa – usually eaten for breakfast or lunch – is also outstanding, and then there are dishes which might be unfamiliar to those not acquainted with Indian cuisine: panipuri, where deep fried shells (puri) which are then filled with richly flavoured water (pani), or bhelpuri, a tasty savoury snack of puffed rice and vegetables with a tangy tamarind sauce.
Due to the popularity of its weekend offering, Spice Junction now has a regular business menu throughout the week, so you’ll be well served whenever you visit. Just hurry up while it’s still mango season.
- Spice Junction, Bülowstraße 44, 10783 Berlin, details