With Wagyu, Bacalao, and Tuna—Hiroki Arai’s Omakase Celebrates Japan and His New Home in Mexico
When Hiroki Arai was growing up in Tokyo, his interests led him to engineering, but even with an advanced degree, he knew that field wasn’t his passion.
“From the beginning I liked cooking and I liked to explore new foods,” says Arai, head chef of Hoshi, a new omakase restaurant that opened this month at One&Only Palmilla in Los Cabos, Mexico. “That’s why I wanted to change my job from an engineer to a chef to explore the world and look for new ingredients, new food, new cultures.”
Arai, 38, began his cooking career at Waka Daisho, a sushi bar in Tokyo. Arai spent his mornings studying the culinary arts, then evenings was on-the-job learning.
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It was there that Arai developed his culinary philosophy that “centers around the essence of taste rather than the decoration,” Arai says.
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From Tokyo, Arai traveled across the globe, honing his skills and craft in restaurants in Germany, India, Dubai, and now Mexico.
At Hoshi, Arai is focusing on bluefin tuna from a nearby village, giant scallops from Loreto, Wagyu beef from Japan, as well as bacalao negro, which is the local black cod.
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“This is the first time in my career that I’m opening a new restaurant,” Arai says. “Hoshi is my new challenge and my new journey is to make history in Los Cabos.”
Arai says Hoshi is an opportunity to showcase something very close to his heart and his roots: the art of traditional Japanese cuisine.
“Hoshi is an intimate omakase-style dining experience, a curated culinary journey inspired by the freshest seasonal ingredients and rich Japanese culture,” Arai says. “It is also an homage to my new hometown of Los Cabos and its roots as a small fisherman village that to this day is home to some of the best quality seafood in the world.”
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He shares more of his favorite things with Penta.
The best book I’ve read in the past year is… I recently read 76 Dishes of Sanpi Ryoron by Kasahara Masahiro. This book delves into the strengths and weaknesses of Masahiro San’s cooking skills, dishes, and style.
Things in my kitchen I can’t live without… Knives and sharpening stones are essential tools for me. In Japan, we believe that knives are an extension of a chef’s arms. During culinary school, I made it a habit to sharpen my knives once a month. This experience helped me understand the importance of this tool and how its sharpness contributes to a smoother and more enjoyable cooking process.
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The thing that gets me up in the morning is… I’m completely focused on Hoshi’s success. I start each day looking forward to the tasks on hand for the day ahead. From visiting the market and meeting the fishermen to perfecting the plating to meticulously training the staff—each day we get a little closer to the opening and it’s this anticipation that makes me eager to rise. I remember back when Covid started, I was actually on a vacation in Thailand. The vacation turned into six months before I was able to return home. It was a difficult time and it made me realize the importance of having daily motivation and purpose in life. These things outweigh all the luxuries that one might seek.
A childhood memory that I treasure is… When I was a kid, I used to often walk down the river with my grandmother. There’s a particular memory of me catching a crab, about two to three centimeters in size. I found it below a stone and then suddenly, one crab turned into what seemed like an endless stream of crabs coming from inside the stone. My grandma helped me catch more. Afterward, she fried the crabs and added a pinch of salt and lemon while cooking them.
The person who has inspired me to do what I do is… My mother has always been my biggest inspiration. Not just in terms of my career and my love of cooking but also who I aspire to be as a person. There’s also the head chef from one of my first jobs. I used to watch him in awe as a guest would rattle off a few preferences and the chef would get to work, weaving together a culinary experience that hit all the right notes. There was no menu, just the guest’s verbal request and perceived mood.
A perfect meal at home is… Steamed Japanese rice, grilled seasonal fish with salt, soy and grated radish, pickled vegetables and Miso soup. Nothing more, nothing less. Simple with just a touch of garnishing, allowing each ingredient to shine for what it is.
The restaurant in my hometown that I love taking visitors to is… The restaurant where I started as a young trainee, [Waka Daisho]. This very traditional Japanese restaurant where my boss taught me how to be a chef. “‘Old’ and ‘dirty’ are not the same.” The age of the space had no effect on the quality of the food or the standards that we held ourselves to. Taking pride in something, no matter how old or aged, that’s what mattered most.